Runway Report: Stella McCartney AW18

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Stella McCartney was in a playful mood for Fall 2018, showcasing a collection that wasn’t always, as it seemed. “I always try and have some kind of playfulness in my body at all times,” McCartney said backstage after the show. “We always want to have an effortless approach. That’s what I think we represent in fashion: playful effortlessness but also something mindful and considered.” 

The collection was a mix between extremes: think hard tailoring blended with soft fabrics. But the focus was, as usual, on the practical, undemanding trousers that formed not only the lower part of a suit, but also an addition to airy dresses. 

Men and women alike (McCartney combined her women’s and one-year-old men’s collections on the runway for the first time) wore suits with white-soled trainers (the new Loop trainer uses special hooks and stitching to avoid the need for glues, which can be toxic); these also worked with a range of sheer overlays and lace slips inspired by vintage bridal gowns.

McCartney’s approach to sustainability, especially her animal-free policy, is one of her biggest contributions to the fashion industry. “It’s what I do, and I’ve done it from day one and I shall continue to do it until I’m decomposing,” she said. “I hope I’m joined by more people. I think it’s unavoidable because the next generation of human beings will demand it. It’s doable. I’m here, showing everyone that you can actually do it. You can have a healthy business; you can have beautiful, sexy, cutting-edge modern clothing. You can actually have it all.”